Lawn Management Guidelines
Watering | Mowing | Fertilizing | Overseeding
Rolling | Disease & Insect Control | Weed Control
in the evening (after 8pm) for best results. During very warm
dry days, you want to provide complete coverage of the lawn
at least every other day. Do
not, do not, do not water
lightly. Light watering causes the roots to “reach” upward
toward the water and become more vulnerable to drying. You
can stop watering in late September. You will not have to
water the second year unless a severe drought warrants so.
A general rule to follow is you know you have enough water
when it begins to puddle on the surface.
Mow new turf grass for the first time when it is approximately
four inches tall. Regular mowing should be done when the turf
reaches about the same height. Do not mow shorter than two inches
or serious dieback will occur. Your lawn will look best if mowed
at 3 to 3.5 inches, even in drought situations. Do not remove
(if possible) more than one third of the leaf surface at a time.
It is not necessary to collect clippings if you mow and remove
only one third of the leaf surface. Clippings do not build up
thatch. The type of grass you have and amount of fertilization
you do will contribute more to thatch build up than clippings.
The biggest tip for a great looking lawn is to keep your mower
blades sharp for the best cut and nicest turf presentation.
Dull blades contribute to conditions that allow for disease
Established turf should be fertilized about four times per
year. Total application of nitrogen (N) should not exceed four
pounds per year for Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass and two pounds
per year for fine fescue. Applications can be made using a good
commercial program or at the following rates.
Spring (Late May) - 1 lb N Late July/ Early Sept - .5 lb N
Fall (Late Oct) - 2 lbs N
Note: We can provide you will an annual fertilization program
if you are interested. (Back to Top)
you find your turf is not filling in sufficiently after
the first year, you may overseed
thicken it. Overseeding
is best done in the Fall, but can also be successful in the
spring. All you need to do is broadcast the seed over the
thin spots of the yard. Try to match up the seed to your
existing turf. If you can’t, it is best to use a mix
of primarily Perennial Rye and Kentucky Bluegrass.
The process of alleviating soil compaction in lawns is done
with mechanical aeration. This is a process of removing plugs
of soil by a machine with hollow tines or open spoons. Aeration
should be done in periods of cool weather (early spring or early
fall). Adequate soil moisture must be present to allow for good
penetration of the tines into the soil in order to remove the
plugs. Aeration is the best method for controlling thatch buildup
in lawns along with maintaining healthy soil structure. In home
lawns aeration should be considered every two years.
Rolling is acceptable to lightly level bumpy turf. The best
time to roll is early spring. Be sure not to overdo it as too
much compaction can damage soil structure.(Back
and Insect Controls
This is a very technical subject and I will give you some
simple tips for the most common problems. Diseases will not
attack a healthy turf that is not under any stress. Use common
sense and do not over fertilize, mow too short (under 3 inches),
allow clippings to remain in clumps on lawn surface, or let
the turf become too dry.
Disease problems are rare if you do not stress the lawn by
over or under fertilization or cut your lawn with a dull blade
on your mower. Insect problems in this area are common and can
be divided into two groups, surface feeder and subsurface feeders.
Chinch bug is a surface-feeding, leaf sucking, insect that
becomes a problem during the summer in hot weather. It will
make the grass look like it needs water. When you see the turf
starting to brown in large patches, look in a grass for small
insects. There will be multiple stages of the insect apparent
in mid summer. Treat the turf with any chemical pesticide labeled
for chinch bug. Turf will restore from damage by the third or
White grub is a root-feeding subsurface insect that as an
adult is a beetle, usually Japanese or brown chafer beetles.
They are actively feeding on the roots of your turf from early
September through early May. During the pupae and adult stages
they do not damage your turf. For the best control treat yearly
about Sept 1st if you see adult populations during the summer.
Use a pesticide labeled for white grubs and water the pesticide
into the soil within 24 hours of application for best results.
are other insects, but these are the ones which have been
a common problem in our area. Both insects will be present
annually and depending upon
weather conditions and local populations may need to have
controls applied. We do not recommend blanket insecticide
annually.(Back to Top)
frequency of mowing can be reduced substantially if weeds
are not present. We have primary two types of competing weeds
in our lawn environment: broadleaf weeds and crabgrass. Crabgrass
controls are usually pre-emergent in nature (killing crabgrass
seeds prior to germination). When applying pre-emergents
usually cannot overseed unless the pre-emergent label specifically
permits it. Apply pre-emergents about April 15th for good
seasonal control. Crabgrass pre-emergents can be applied about
of Forsythia flowering.
Broadleaf weeds can be controlled with any formulation of
2-4 D herbicide. Apply in mid-May when weeds are actively
growing by liquid application (preferred) or dry application when dew
in present. Two annual applications, spring and fall, may be
necessary. Once your lawn is thick, crabgrass or broadleaf weeds
should be not a problem since the dense grass will effectively
shade out germinating seedlings.
can provide you will an annual lawn care program if you
are interested. With just one year of care, we can have
your lawn back to the glory it once was.